PRAIRIE
LINEN AND LACE
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The qualitative study explored student perceptions of instructors' appearance as related to their classroom listening and learning. Six hundred two usable surveys resulted from the April 1996 survey conducted on a mid-western regional university campus. Students were asked to list and explain clothing items, accessories, and grooming habits which fit into the following categories: inappropriate and interfere with my learning; non-professional, but do not interfere; very professional and very appropriate; and able to enhance my learning. Four hundred twenty-one students (69.99 percent) listed a variety of appearance items as interfering with their listening and learning. Grooming habits and shoe issues were the most often reported. Students reported more acceptance of diversity and variety in clothing items worn than acceptance of poor grooming habits. Of the respondents; 181 students (30.06 percent) reported they did not believe any appearances were inappropriate and/or interfered with listening and learning while 203 students (33.7 percent) reported some appearances enhanced learning.
The research indicated three findings. First, a diverse situational relationship exists between students' perceptions of instructors' appearances and the learning experience. Second, there is an indication of very small shift in college students' definitions of professional dress for instructors. Third, a student's major professional study area does not closely relate to his/her perceptions of the instructors' appearance issue.
Primary and secondary sources were reviewed to understand the historical significance of Herbert and Lou Hoover's World War I efforts in assisting the Commission for Relief in Belgium (CRB). This assistance was given by negotiating shipment of England's thread supplies and developing markets which provided paid work for Belgium lace makers. Author Charlotte Kellogg and others document the importance of Herbert Hoover's negotiating skills in completing the difficult mission of marketing Belgium laces during the war, now known as Allied or War Laces.
The United States supported the overrun Belgium people much earlier than the April 6, 1917 war declaration. In the February 25, 1915 issue of The San Francisco Bulletin, a quote from Mrs. Hoover's letter to Mrs Vernon (Charlotte) Kellogg explained mutual relief programs. Lou Hoover was quoted, "We are also supporting a Belgian lace movement. We are taking charge of a great quantity of this lace to be sold in the United States by the commission or rather through the commission." The commission refers to the CRB of which Herbert Hoover served as chairman, fourteen years before he became the 31st president of the United States.
The lace effort supplied orders at fair prices for the 45,000 Belgium lace workers resulting in food purchases for their families. The Hoovers negotiated for thread supplies shipped from England, finished lace products carried through enemy lines to Antwerp, Amsterdam and Rotterdam, then freighted to London, and finally shipped or hand carried for purchase in New York, Washington D.C., Philadelphia and California. There were many complications and constant danger including Britain's Blockade of the harbors, Germany's inability to feed the 7000-10,000 occupied people, America's reluctance to lower tariffs and Germany's insistence that the lace products have no political implications. As reported by Charlotte Kellogg, author to Bobbins of Belgium (p. 20), "...old patterns were restored and improved and by the end of the war 2,237 new designs had been added."
Germany prohibited propaganda motifs in the lace design and suspected the Brussels Committee of being a political and patriotic body. The stated suspicion was with reason since the recognizable lace products were designed with national emblems, animals and flags that honored allied powers. The researcher observed allied symbols in tablecloths, runners, and dollies of needle and bobbin laces in Belgium and the United States. Hoovers' personal lace gifts and correspondences were studied at the Herbert Hoover Presidential Library. The Lace for Food program was successful. The Allied Laces were purchased through the CRB by many countries including Germany from 1915 through 1921. The researcher welcomes any information about known pieces of Allied/War Laces and related materials which can be documented for a reference data base.
References:
Kellogg, C. (1920). Bobbins of Belgium. New
York: Funk & Wagnalls
Sale of lace and medals to help Belgians. (25
February 1915). The San Francisco Bulletin
Notes:
"They are now getting out medals with
the head of the king and queen of Belgians on one side, and on
the other Columbia feeding a Belgian family from her apron; and
the commission proposes to issue them throughout the world, .
. .".
Wimbledon is the undisputed ultimate championship of tennis and is the annual event of The All England Lawn and Croquet Club. The first Wimbledon championship was determined in July 1877 with 200 hundred enthusiasts watching. Maud Watson, an Irish champion, would win the inaugural ladies' championship in 1884 and again in 1885. Many other ladies and championships followed in Miss Watson's footsteps over the 122 years with ever changing apparel and expanding crowds. Now, the event attracts thousands to Centre Court and millions watching via television. The researcher's interest was whether Queen Victoria's (Reign 1837 to 1901) strict mannerisms or the lace fashions of the time period influenced ladies' sports attire, especially when playing in front of an audience. Tennis was selected because of the early acceptance of ladies public participation and printed documentation of attire worn.
Lace trim on fine tucked lawn dresses was worn by many ladies in the late 19th century but not on the tennis court. Miss Watson's long sleeved bodice appears very structured and restrictive or more masculine while the front draped overskirt adds a feminine touch neither conducive to vigorous activity. There appears a very small lace edging on her collar but not to the extent of the fashion of the times. Her attire included a snappy white boater, white stockings and white ankle boots. The all white rule held until the 1950s for both men and women.
There were, as could be expected, different standards for women than for men. The restrictions of corsets, starched collars with ties, long skirts and petticoats lasted until 1919 when the games resumed after World War I. The men's champion in 1907 did not wear a neck tie. All of the 1913 ladies singles championship contenders show neck ties, however, some collars have a softer look. The corset was still evident in the 1913 women's photographs. The one temporary break in the long strict and stifling appearance was the daring May Sutton, 1907 champion from the United States with her "daring, ankle-showing dress" with its short sleeves, lower neckline, no tie and a visor type head accessory (Medlycott, 1977). Her pigeon shaped corset was still evident.
The twenties showed that shirts were shortening from their no more than 6 inches from the ground tradition. To the amazement of some, knee length stockings and slips were also showing in the action of the sport. Centre Court was outraged in 1926 when South African Bobbie Tapscott came stockingless. There was no competition from 1915 to 1918. When the games re-opened in 1919 Suzanne Lenglen helped lead the attack on the crippling tradition of wearing corsets. The mid 1930s showed that form should and would follow function as Hel Jacobs wore shorts on Centre Court for the first time. Ladies tennis champions court dress soon took a more functional form including coulottes. A frothy blend of lace and decoration reached its height in 1950s on Lea Pericoli from Italy. Not only was the ruffled decoration talked about but her very short tunic was new attire and photographers scrambled for pictures at new angles.
Other tennis championship players have displayed
further the changes in tennis court accepted attire. Tracy Austin
won her second U.S. Open in 1981 with a sleeveless eyelet tunic.
Christ Evert Lloyd showed that backless was the thing with her
tennis dress and its American flag pockets. Martina Navratilova's
red shirt with her American flag pockets on her white skirt in
1980s championships showed how far the all white rule had been
stretched. The 1990s demonstrated that the function of sports
wear was the most important aspect.
Primary references:
Medlycott, J. (1977). 100 Years of the Wimbledon Tennis Championships. New York: Cresent Books.
Collins, B. & Hollander, Z , editors. (1994) Bud Collins' Modern Encyclopedia of Tennis. Detroit: Gale Research Inc.
United States would be represented for the first time in 1883 by two brothers. The 1998 Wimbledon Championships reported a after considering golf and croquet
Miss Robb won in 1902 wearing her tight corset, starched 3 inch collar with tie, cuffs and belt and her hat at a proper angle. The 1907 men's champion, Norman Brookes, played in long trousers, with buttoned to the neck shirt and no tie. While Mrs Alfred Sterry won in 1908 wearing a starched collar with tie and french cuffs and a belt with a center ornament. By 1910, Maud Coles wears white still appearing more masculine than the men in her long structured corseted appearance with a black neck tie. . The skirts have yet to leave the ground more than six to eight inches. By July 1977, an audience of 15,000 would be around Center Court with hundreds maybe million more via television and radio.
Steffi Graf won Paris with colored stars on her shirt in 1987.
PRAIRIE
LINEN AND LACEThe design was inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright’s use of stylized sumac in his prairie houses of the mid-west. The gold and brown tones often used in the leaded glass windows easily translated to textiles.
The semiformal dress was created from natural colored, medium weight, and hand woven Belgium linen (flax) batiste. Four Torchon lace appliques were patterned and crafted using 100% linen (flax) two ply yarns. Consistent with the inspiration, the angular expression, the obvious absence of curved lines, and the bias fabric movements enhance the visibility of the lace motifs. A muslin pattern was draped using Madeline Vionnet’s bias-cut concepts. Refinements were completed by flat pattern techniques. Small lapped seams with hand overcasting were used for all primary garment pieces. The natural properties of 100% linen and the drape of a true bias garment eliminated the need for supplemental closures.
This qualitative research study was intended to examine white teachers'
reactions to the challenge of using transformative multicultural education
practices within predominately white classrooms in predominately white
communities. Two research questions were addressed:
1) What are the personal
constructs of teachers regarding their Whiteness?
2) How do constructs of Whiteness influence multicultural education in
a predominately white classroom?
The researcher designed and implemented a training course for white teachers
in predominately white environments. Sixteen early childhood professionals
voluntarily participated in the course. As participants moved through
the training course, data were collected from participant journals, transcripts
of both training sessions and correspondences between the researcher and
participants, and two observation periods in each participant's classroom.
The researcher followed the Constant Comparative Model of data analysis.
As data were gathered, analysis occurred simultaneously. The interplay
between Whiteness and Midwestern culture was found to be the core concept
of the study, which influenced every aspect of the research. Supplemental
categories were also generated which addressed significant struggles faced
by the participants when attempting to use transformative multicultural
education practices in the predominately white classroom.
Past research has shown that white teachers must first understand their
race if they are to understand multiculturalism. However, the basic tenant
of Whiteness is that it is rooted in privilege and inequity, a paradigm
that sharply challenges the Midwestern ideology of niceness, politeness
and a commitment to fairness. This disconnection between racial discourse
and prevailing Midwestern culture formed the basis of the findings of
the study. This researcher found that when issues relating to Whiteness
and to the use of transformative multicultural education practices in
predominately white classrooms were approached with an eye toward framing
instruction within Midwest ideology, participants were much more willing
to engage in both personal introspection and an examination of educational
resources.
COMPUTER USE, EXPOSURE AND EXPERIENCE, AND GENDER ISSUES AMONG PRESCHOOL CHILDREN
Research Abstract -- Dr. Mikki Meadows (1997)
Thesis advisor, S. Jayne Ozier, PhD
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Past research has been inconclusive on the
subject of computer use and preschool children with some studies
showing little or no sex differences and some studies showing
strong differences. This descriptive, exploratory research used
both observational and questionnaire data. The purpose of the
study was to investigate prior computer experience and exposure,
computer use, and gender issues among preschool children.
The nonprobability convenience population consisted of 17 children, ten males and seven females, between the ages of 36-72 months. Naturalistic observation occurred through video taping of a child development laboratory. A modified event sampling schedule was used to record the variables of frequency and duration of computer use by each sex. Females chose the computer center as a free-play option an average of 9.99 minutes per hour of availability. Males used the computer 12.75 minutes per hour of availability. A t-test found no statistical significance between the sexes. A comparison of the variables of frequency of use and duration of use found that when children, male or female, approached the computer they were not hesitant to use the system.
A 15 item, closed-ended parent questionnaire was used to address the variables of computer experience and exposure, and computer modeling behavior the children observed. Items on the questionnaires were assigned a numerical value according to themes of computer exposure and experience.
Female children tended to have similar amounts of technological exposure and experience as males. Of a possible 77 points, females scored an average of 24.8 points on the questionnaires. Males scored an average of 24.6 points on the questionnaires. A t-test was performed and no statistical significance was found.
When a computer problem arose, eight times it was an adult male who was called on to solve the problem; and in only four instances was it an adult female. In general, the preschool age children saw men using the computer more frequently than women, and they used the men more often than women to help solve their computer problems.
The research also examined children’s previous technological experience or exposure in relation to use of the computer in the laboratory. Overall, the amount of experience and exposure of each child did not seem to be related to the time he or she spent using the computer in the laboratory.
Both the major and the minor research questions of this exploratory study addressed gender differences in computer use, exposure, and experience with regard to preschool children. Very little difference, according to sex, was found at any point during the research. The only segment of the study in which differences were evident were in regard to modeling behavior that the children observed outside of the laboratory setting.
Both boys and girls should be encouraged to be computer users. If the initial interest the children in this study showed toward computers is nourished, there is every reason for them to continue to feel comfortable and competent using computers when they become adults, regardless of their sex.
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Using Technology in Early Childhood Environments to Strengthen Cultural Connections
Research Abstract -- Dr. Mikki Meadows
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Society is changing. In order to survive and thrive in a new, diverse nation, individuals must adapt. The children who will guide the future must be equipped with skills to navigate on uncharted waters. As stated in the National Association for the Education of Young Children's publication, The Children of 2010 (Washington & Andrews 1998), "In a nation where no single race or culture will ultimately be in the majority, the next generation will be called upon to work together - to move beyond the injustice, intolerance, resentment, and anger that has been such weighty baggage in United States history." (p. 14). Children can't achieve this hope alone. They need help cultivating the interpersonal skills that will allow them to accept and appreciate both the commonalties and the differences that exist all around them.
Drawing on the work of James A. Banks (1996) and Stacey York (1991) the following objectives are identified to support developmentally appropriate work with young children in the area of multiculturalism and diversity.
The children will:
form an awareness of self and explore individuality in relation to their place in the larger group;
gain knowledge of the traditions, rituals, and practices that combine to form an individual's cultural heritage;
build a sense of identification with others through the recognition of commonalties and move toward an appreciation of differences; and
recognize unfair characterizations and begin to understand their roles as agents of change.
Frequently commercial curriculum materials, play props, literature, games and activities are not the most appropriate when attempting to construct an environment for children that will support the growth of cultural competence. Commercially produced materials often contain stereotypical images of costumed children in various geographical regions; the use of the English language is almost exclusive; and alternative family styles, gender roles, ability levels and mixed-age relationships are not often seen. Fortunately, the developmentally appropriate use of technology in early childhood environments is now viable (Haugland 1999) and can aid early childhood professionals in the development of methods and materials that are made in the classroom with a focus on strengthening critical cultural connections for each child.
True multicultural education involves the integration of diversity concepts into every aspect of the curriculum (Banks 1996). Often educators fall into the "tourist" trap and treat multiculturalism as a thematic unit or a specific lesson that must be covered. A month spent studying Mexico, for example, is added to the early childhood curriculum. During the Mexico unit children dine on traditional Mexican foods, listen to Mexican music, wear sombreros and serapes, and learn about Cinco de Mayo celebrations. This practice is called the tourism approach and involves the children looking at groups of people or geographic areas as if they were touring a strange and exotic place. The tourist approach serves to highlight differences, which is not the purpose of multicultural education (Banks 1996). Unfortunately, the media permeating children's lives generally follows the tourism approach as well, often going so far as to exaggerate differences as a comedic device. When children see artwork of adult Mexican males napping against a cactus, watch Speedy Gonzales cartoons, and see Mexican children photographed exclusively in traditional costume, a patronizing caricature of an individual from Mexico begins to form.
All children are harmed by this practice. Those from Mexico or of Mexican decent are clearly marginalized by these images, but other children also are impoverished. Children should not be exposed to material that trivializes others and does not deal with their real, day-to-day living. Children can easily develop a false base of security founded on perceived superiority over others. Unfortunately, they may begin to form pre-bias prejudices if they are not given the opportunity to learn alternative methods of thinking and behaving (Derman-Sparks & A.B.C Task Force 1989).
Instead of resorting to the tourist approach to multiculturalism, educators should highlight commonalties among people and integrate diversity issues into every aspect of daily activity with children. Since commercial materials may not be suitable, technology offers educators the opportunity to integrate multiculturalism in a appropriate manner by developing material specific to the needs of the program.
This research was accepted as a poster presentation by the Society for Information Technology and Teacher Education International Conference in Orlando, FL and was published in the conference proceedings book.
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GAY, LESBIAN, TRANSGENDERED, AND BISEXUAL FAMILIES: THE TEACHER OR CAREGIVER'S ROLE IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF POSITIVE RELATIONSHIPS
Research Abstract -- Dr. Mikki Meadows
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The family is the child's first teacher as well as a strong socializing force in his or her life. Therefore, the bond between child and family must be encouraged and nurtured. In order for those who teach young children to be effective they must learn the skills needed to slowly transition children into the caregiving or preschool environment while still maintaining important family relationships. The first step in developing these positive transitions is a satisfactory relationship between parents and teachers or caregivers. (Jonson, 1999) Most teachers and care providers don't have much difficulty approaching parents that have a traditional lifestyle. Individuals generally feel more comfortable and competent around people that are somewhat familiar in habit, dress, language, socioeconomic status, and family structure. But, what about those families not of the mainstream?
Statistics vary, but it is thought that approximately four to six million gay, lesbian, transgendered, or bisexual individuals parent around eight to ten million children. An early childhood environment can be one of the first endeavors into institutionalized society that these parents and their children undertake together. Teachers and caregivers have a powerful influence on any family’s life. While it is normal for all parents to feel insecure and evaluated when beginning new relationships with their children's caregivers or teachers, gay, lesbian, transgendered, and bisexual parents may have additional anxieties. As individuals who belong to a social group that carries a stigma, they have undoubtedly faced discrimination and prejudice at times in their life. The fear of encountering negative reactions in a child care or preschool environment may significantly raise their apprehension. In addition, teachers and care providers who feel confident about discussing such topics as separation anxiety or toileting may feel at a loss to deal with some of the complex issues that arise with children from gay, lesbian, transgendered, or bisexual homes.
This research was accepted for publication in January of 2001 in the Journal of Early Education and Family Review, 8, (3).
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COMPLIANCE OF ILLINOIS SCHOOL LUNCH MENUS WITH THE DIETARY GUIDELINES FOR AMERICANS: A NEEDS ASSESSMENT
Research Abstract -- Dr. Melanie Burns (1999)
Unauthorized use or reproduction of this information is prohibited.
Since its inception in 1946, the National School Lunch Program has been an integral part of America’s school children lives, oftentimes changing with the needs of the children. Through the years, the focus has shifted from one of providing food to undernourished school children once a day to providing food twice daily and throughout the summer months when school is not in session. As the needs of children changed from undernourishment of several essential nutrients to overnourishment of a few key nutrients, the National School Lunch and Breakfast Programs were required to meet the Dietary Guidelines for Americans (DGAs). This effort strives to provide a diet more consistent with the needs of children.
This study focused on the compliance of area school lunch menus with the DGAs. The purpose of this study was twofold: to determine if the lunches served by schools participating in the NSLP comply with the Dietary Guidelines for Americans and to compare the actual compliance to the perceived compliance as identified by the school district food service director.
Four research questions were formulated to guide this study.
Are school district food service directors complying with the Dietary
Guidelines for Americans, and if not, what
are the perceived barriers that limit
compliance?
Do school district food service directors perceive they are complying with the Dietary Guidelines for Americans?
What are the perceived nutrition education needs of school district food service directors?
How knowledgeable are school district food service directors about the Dietary Guidelines for Americans?
In an effort to answer these research questions, data were collected in three separate phases with seventeen school food service directors in east central Illinois participating in phases 1 and 3 and seven participating in phase 2. Analysis of phase 1 indicates that the school food service directors perceive they are complying with the DGAs. However, poor student acceptance of and the higher cost of lower fat, lower sodium, and fresh foods were limiting factors for full compliance with the DGAs. Directors also indicated that nutrition education was needed in the use of computerized dietary analysis programs, the development and use of standardized recipes, the incorporation of commodity foods into the modified menus and meal preparation techniques to help meet the guidelines.
Data collected in phase 2 revealed that the directors were not complying as well with the DGAs as they perceived. Areas of greatest discrepancy included the fat, saturated fat, and sodium content of actual lunches served in comparison with the perceived compliance of these nutrients.
Finally, the data analyzed in phase 3 indicated that the directors were fairly knowledgeable about the guidelines by scoring an average of 74% correct on a 15-question knowledge test. The two dietary guidelines with the lowest scores included choosing a diet low in fat, saturated fat, and cholesterol as well as choosing a diet moderate in sugar.
The results of this study indicate that school food service directors are trying to comply with the DGAs and are fairly knowledgeable about the guidelines. However, more personalized nutrition education focused at the specific needs of the director is warranted. Several training topics were identified as well as potential limitations of compliance.
(This research was presented at the 1999 American School Food Service Association's Annual Conference as a poster presentation)
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INTERNAL MARKETING OF AN INSTITUTIONAL FOOD MANAGEMENT COURSE
Research Abstract -- Dr. Melanie Burns (2000)
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When marketing services at the University level, the external community is oftentimes targeted through various outreach programs. However, marketing internally to the campus community does not seem to be targeted as often. The purpose of this project was to enhance the image of Family and Consumer Sciences within the Panther Dining Service. To achieve this, the senior-level institutional food management students acted as market research consultants for the five dining centers. Thirty students (five teams of six with one designated as the team leader) were divided by their preference of research topic into the dining centers. The five research topics, as determined by the dining service management, were as follows: a plate-waste study of a new line; a sanitation in-service for student workers; a product evaluation of breakfast items; an evaluation of the design/layout of a congested center; and the planning of a Sandwich Shop. Throughout the semester, the teams researched the problem area through discussions with the dining center personnel and a review of current literature. Each team conducted the research and presented their results in three ways: a full written document to the instructor, an executive summary of the findings to dining service management, and an oral presentation to their classmates, instructor, and dining service management. Informal formative evaluation from the dining service management was positive as they were active participants throughout the semester. Summative student evaluation was achieved by a focus group comprised of the five team leaders. Student comments were varied but overall positive in the value of the learning experience.
(This research was accepted as a poster presentation at the 2000 Society for Nutrition Education Annual Conference.)
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